The toxic legacy hidden beneath a mountain retreat

The toxic legacy hidden beneath a mountain retreat
Image: Intellect (generated)

In short: Kodaikanal is celebrated as the 'Princess of Hill Stations,' a lush escape in the Western Ghats. But beneath its beautiful eucalyptus forests and star-shaped lakes lies a darker reality: a decades-long environmental crisis involving heavy metal contamination that may persist for centuries.

Established in 1845 as a refuge from the heat and tropical diseases of the Indian plains, Kodaikanal has long been a sanctuary. The town, situated at 2,225 metres in the Palani Hills, is famous for its unique Kurinji flowers that bloom only once every 12 years. However, the town's tranquil reputation was compromised by the presence of a second-hand mercury thermometer factory owned by Unilever. The region's history is deeply rooted in Tamil Sangam literature, which describes the area as a landscape of waterfalls and sandalwood trees. This ancient landscape was once home to the Palaiyar tribal people, who practiced honey harvesting and millet cultivation.

Relocated from New York to Kodaikanal in 1983, the factory became the center of a massive environmental scandal. Following allegations of serious violations, the plant was shut down in 2001. Investigations by a 2011 committee estimated that approximately 11.2 tonnes of mercury may have been released into the air or disposed of as waste. This dispersal contaminated large areas of the town, including the surrounding forests and the iconic Kodaikanal Lake. The contamination affects a wide ecosystem, including the 700 square kilometer Kodaikanal Wildlife Sanctuary. This area is home to diverse fauna such as the Indian elephant, the Indian gaur, and the flying squirrel.

The legal battle for accountability lasted decades. While Unilever initially denied responsibility for waste dumping and worker poisoning, the company eventually agreed to compensate workers in 2016 following Madras High Court proceedings. By 2018, orders from the Supreme Court and the National Green Tribunal required the company to undertake site remediation, a process that began in 2021. Despite these efforts, the dispersed mercury is projected to remain in the soil for centuries, leaving a permanent mark on this 'gift of the forest'. The town's economy now relies heavily on the hospitality industry, with roughly 3.2 million tourists visiting in 2009. To manage this influx, local authorities often convert major roads into one-way lanes during the peak summer season.

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