The world's highest mountain north of 39°N is a deadly massif

Countries & Cities · Published 12 October 2026 · Updated 25 October 2026 Swipe more like this →

In short: Known variously as Victory Peak or Tomur, Jengish Chokusu is the highest point in the Tian Shan. It is a complex massif where only the main summit reaches 7,000 metres, standing as a formidable, often lethal, challenge for even the most experienced mountaineers.

Standing at 7,439 metres, Jengish Chokusu is the highest mountain in Kyrgyzstan and the highest in the Tian Shan mountain system. It is also the most northerly 7,000-metre mountain on Earth. Known by several names, the mountain is officially Jengish Chokusu in Kyrgyz, whereas the Russian term Pik Pobeda means "Victory Peak." In China, it is called Tomur Peak, a name stemming from the Uyghur word for "iron."

The mountain's geological composition is complex, featuring a stack of thrust sheets known as nappes. The highest part is composed of high-grade metamorphic charnockites containing clinopyroxene, orthopyroxene, and olivine. These sit atop a layer of low-grade metasedimentary rocks, including black schists and marbles, which were overthrust northward along the Pobeda thrust fault. This geological structure is part of the Kakshaal Too, the highest section of the Tian Shan.

The peak has a history of disputed measurements and tragic expeditions. In 1938, a Soviet expedition incorrectly measured the peak at 6,900 metres, naming it Pik 20-ti letiya Komsomola. It wasn't until a 1943 survey that its true height of 7,439 metres was established. The mountain is notoriously dangerous; a 1955 attempt resulted in 11 deaths out of 12 members. By 2025, the summit has claimed over 80 lives, yet no remains have been recovered.

The mountain's landscape is shaped by massive glaciers, including the South Engilchek Glacier. At 60.5 kilometres long, the South Engilchek is the sixth longest glacier outside of the polar regions. The main summit is typically approached via the Zvozdochka glacier, which is notably stained red by rocks from the mountain itself.

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