From massive crinolines to tight corsets: the dramatic silhouette shift of the 1870s

Cultures · Published 2 October 2026 Swipe more like this →

In short: In just ten years, Western fashion underwent a radical structural transformation. The decade began with voluminous, heavy skirts supported by cage-like structures and ended with a sleek, body-conscious line that pushed the limits of tailoring and prompted even the era's satirists to mock its impracticality.

The early 1870s were defined by an emphasis on the rear. Skirts were supported by the 'crinolette'—a hybrid elliptical hoop that focused fullness on the back—and often featured heavy trimm/flounces and draped overskirts. This era favored a high waistline and a low, wide bust, a silhouette achieved through corsetry that featured a higher hip line. By the middle of the decade, the 'Dolly Varden' style and elaborate drapery were common, with overskirts often arranged to create an apron effect at the front.

As the decade progressed, the silhouette underwent a profound contraction. The crinolette was superseded by the bustle, which provided structure for trains and drapery without the wide lateral circumference of earlier years. By the second half of the decade, the fashion shifted toward a long, tightly fitting line. Bodices evolved into 'cuirass' forms—long, boned garments extending over the hips—or one-piece 'princess-line' dresses. The fullness of the skirt migrated from the waist to the lower back and the train.

This period also saw significant technological and social shifts. The 1868 patent for steam-molding helped maintain the new, more curvaceous corset contours. While the era is often remembered for its rigidity, the 'Artistic dress' movement, influenced by the Pre-Raphaelte Brotherhood, championed more naturalistic, historicist lines. Meanwhile, in San Francisco, 1873 marked the beginning of a different kind of revolution: Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis began selling copper-riveted blue jeans, designed for the durability required by gold seekers.

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